Barging It In Paris

At the end of a long day roaming the cobble-stoned streets of la Rive Gauche in search of Hemingway, with a stop perhaps at a sidewalk cafe or corner boulangerie, it's walking distance to the Porte de l'Arsenal where ex-San Francisco residents Bill and Nancy Koenig live in their péniche, A 72' converted Dutch barge called the Éclarcie.

There are hundreds of boats of all sizes tied up at the Arsenal, some belonging to residents and others just passing through. It's one of a number of such mooring basins and river wharves where boaters may tie up for a few days or an extended stay, but because of its central location and calm waters, is probably the most popular - and the most expensive.

via A Paris Journal.

Bill and Nancy moved to Paris in 2006 after spending the previous six years roaming the waterways of France on their barge, and wintering at Roanne at the Eastern end of the Loire valley. They first visited the city by boat in 2001, a year after they originally planned.

The view from the river via billandnancy.com "The thrill of looking up at la tour Eiffel and Notre Dame from the deck of our own boat made it worth the wait,” they reported on their blog which chronicles their adventures. "What a fantastic way to enter such a beautiful city.

"We have arrived many times by plane, train or car, but this was our first approach on the Seine in our own barge."

Approaching Notre Dam via billandnancy.com

Accompanied by their dog, Toby, Bill and Nancy moved to France when they retired. Their plan was to live on a barge while meandering through the waterways of Europe for a couple of years. That was in 2000.

Over the years they traveled throughout France, building a network of friends from all over the world that they met enroute or in winter quarters in Roanne. Many keep in touch and visit when they come to Paris.

An elegant house on the Seine via The Alisa Chronicles

Another home on the Seine via The Alisa Chronicles

Jim and Mary Healy via A Paris Journal

"Thebarging community is like a floating international village,” they say, “we all keep in touch either by phone, email, planned or chance encounters, or through the boating grape vine, where all news travels fast."

The Oldtimer via Doctor Vacation

photo by Py All

photo by Patrick Debetencourt

For now they have traded wandering for the excitement of life in Paris, expanding their circle of friends with chance encounters, dinner parties, and community events like the Annual Venetian Carnaval. Started by Artist and Costume designer Michelle Santi, a French resident of the port, it now attracts thousands.

photo by Patrick Debetencourt

They also joined the Yacht Club Paris Bastille, whose members are mostly French. Every year the club bottles wine and attaches their own label, which makes a little money for the club and give them another excuse to gather and drink some together.

Mise en bouteille photo by jaiuneideepourleport

Soirée barbecue arsenal photo by jaiuneideepourleport

Soirée barbecue arsenal photo by jaiuneideepourleport

Harbor residents socialize with events like an informal barbeque on the docks, and more formal dinners with close friends

via A Paris Journal

"We dined under a canvas awning on the back deck facing the water, the Bastille Monument and the Opera House,” said Bay Area friend Jim Healy, who was invited to one of the Koenig's dinner parties. “ It was a great lunch of salmon on a bed of pureed watercress and white asparagus. A parade of boats came by as we relaxed at the table...The food was superb, the friends were delightful, the weather was stunning, and the urban theater both relaxed and invigorating."

People in the harbor live on boats of all sizes and shapes, not just bigbarges. There are about 200 berths at Arsenal, and hundreds more at other ports and river berths throughout Paris.

via billandnancy.com=

Unlike cities in America, Paris and many other European cities are cris-crossed with an extensive network of canals and rivers that extend throughout the countryside. France has 5000 miles of mostly interconnected waterways.

Within Paris itself you can travel by boat from end of the city to another. Port Arsenal is located where the Canal St. Martin joins the Seine. At first glance it resembles a lake, as all entrances are underground.

via Canals of Paris

via Canals of Paris

via billandnancy.com

via Canals of ParisHeading north the St Martin disappears under the Bastile, and stays underground for over a mile before it emerges, leading to another port called Bassin de la Villette, which connects to two more canals. Skylights at regular intervals provide pools of light during the underground portion of the trip. Travelers also pass through a number of locks on the way

Photo Richard Nahem via Eye Prefer Paris.co

La Villete was the locale for this rally for about 40 members of the DBA (Dutch Barge Association) who meet regularly at locations in England and on the Continent. Most of them passed through the Arsenal and canal on their way to the basin. The rallies are a great opportunity to see old friends and make new ones.

Photo Anne Thomes via Mairie de Paris

photo by Bill and Silvia Coates via biesbosch.blogspot.com

Libertijn owners Dan and Emma and their dog Vigie tied up at the Arsenal for a longer visit.

Photo Richard Nahem via Eye Prefer Paris.com

Richard Nahem via Eye Prefer Paris.com

The interior of the Libertijn includes a kitchen by designer Johnny Grey. The spacious home includes a 10' video screen that pulls down from the ceiling for showing movies. Many of the barges have satellite service and high speed internet connections.

Photo Richard Nahem via Eye Prefer Paris.com

Built mostly between 1925 and 1935, péniches were originally used to haul raw materials and freight back and forth along the narrow canals and rivers. Long and narrow enough to fit through the canal locks, they are ideal for maneuvering through narrow canals, under bridges, and around corners.

As freight moved to highways the boats became expendable, and were reborn as floating homes and hotels, some exquisite, and others more esoteric.

via Views From the Wheelhousevia billandnancy.com

Want to buy your own houseboat barge? A restored péniche can cost you upwards of $3-500,000. (See Appolo Duck where boats from France, Belgium, the Netherlands, and even China and the US are advertised.)  Add the high cost of fuel in France, a few thousand for mooring fees and utilities, another $1200 for insurance, and a slush fund for repairs.  You'll also need a license from the French waterways board, Voies Navigable de France (VNF) which costs around $300-600, depending on the size of your boat.

via American Dream Vacations

Exploring France by barge is popular with travelers from all over the world. Agencies that specialize in tours and accommodations cater to those on a budget as well as those of us who can afford more luxurious arrangements. Many offer self-drive and permit-free boats. Or you can book passage on one of the larger boats have been turned into floating hotels with gourmet meals and tours of passing attractions. If you are a wine buff you might want to consider a wine cruise.

via American Dream Vacations

via Staying Afloat In Paris

There are also a range of short and long term houseboat rentals in Paris, from tiny boats to hugebarges. It's a unique way to see the city and meet the people—up close and personal. And if you have your own péniche like the Koenigs you can just take your house with you when you go. Not all the moorings are as central or peaceful as the Arsenal, where there is a waiting list, but there are hundreds of charming, picturesque places you can tie up for a days or a few months while you explore the city. You may just decide to stay there forever.